Скрип новых колодок при торможении: ищем причину и способы устранения

Почему скрипят колодки на велосипеде при торможении, скрип в колодках

Колодки являются важность частью тормозной системы велосипеда. Именно благодаря ним осуществляется непосредственное торможение, поэтому очень важно следить за их состоянием и содержать в надлежащих условиях.

Существует несколько различных типов. Они различаются по своему функционалу, виду и конструкции, а также по типу тормозов, к которым они относятся.

Колодки для ободных тормозов

Такой тип тормозов состоит из двух металлических рычагов, которые сводятся к ободу колеса при каждом нажатии на тормоз. Торможение происходит за счёт трения элементов, расположенных на этих рычагах, о поверхность обода — из-за этого они могут скрипеть.

Колодки для таких тормозов бывают двух видов: одноразовые и картриджные. Первый вид стоит довольно дёшево, но быстро изнашивается. Состоят из болта со специальными шайбами, врезанными в резиновую составляющую.

Картриджные стоят в разы дороже. Они имеют большую толщину и вследствие этого являются более устойчивыми к износу. К тому же они являются разборными, то есть в них можно менять лишь резиновую деталь, оставляя сами тормоза на месте. В свою очередь, картриджные делятся на три типа: для сухой погоды, для влажной погоды и всесезонные (универсальные).

Следует помнить, что изношенные тормоза, которые угрожающе скрипят, могут значительно стереть обод, поэтому их надо часто менять.

Колодки для дисковых тормозов

Дисковые тормоза состоят из стального диска, прикреплённого к втулке колеса. Торможение осуществляется путём прижатия тормозов по обе стороны вращающегося диска.

Колодки на такой тип тормозов подбираются исходя из учёта той или иной модели дискового тормоза.

По материалу изготовления синтетические, металлизированные и органические. Органические колодки достаточно мягкие по своей структуре, за счёт чего довольно быстро стираются, но в то же время обеспечивают очень хорошее сцепление тормоза.

Синтетический материала являются достаточно долговечным и износостойким, однако не дает полного и надёжного сцепления при торможении.

Металлизированные являются более твёрдыми и вследствие этого более износоустойчивыми. Они лучше всего подойдут при торможении на спусках.

Причины скрипов колодок

Скрип тормозов – довольно распространённая проблема у многих велолюбителей. Чаще всего проблема состоит в колодках. Причин, почему они скрипят, может быть довольно много. Например, влажные тормоза могут привести к подобным звукам при торможении. В мокрую погоду ободные тормоза очень сильно скрипят и плохо тормозят. Также поверхность может быть грязной, и это тоже может привести к скрипу. Даже небольшое количество масла, пыли или прочей грязи может повлиять на условия торможения.

Ещё одна причина скрипящих звуков – неправильная установка тормозов. Если они находятся хотя бы немного под углом и не симметричны, это очень сильно влияет на их работу и на звуки, которые они производят. Они должны быть установлены под определённым углом, и сделано это должно быть предельно точно и аккуратно. Эта проблема является довольно распространённой, но легко решаемой в ближайшем сервисном центре или же самостоятельно.Очень часто причиной скрипа при торможении также являются очень сильно изношенные тормоза.

Ещё одной причиной скрипа тормозов может быть деформация тормозного диска, «восьмерка» обода или же некоторые шероховатости на поверхности.

Почему скрипят новые тормозные колодки

Скрип во многом зависит от материала самих колодок. Даже новые иногда скрипят. Некоторые из них могут скрипеть всегда, другие же могут притереться. Следует иметь в виду, что чем мягче резина, тем тише они будут тормозить, но с таким материалом они будут и быстрее изнашиваться и может сильно перегреваться.

• Самые лучшие колодки – оригинальные. Те, которые изначально шли комплектом с тем или иным типом тормозов.

Что с этим делать?

Если колодки скрипят из-за влаги, единственный способ это исправить – просушить их. Естественно, в мокрую погоду это вряд ли получится, поэтому придётся привыкнуть к подобному звуку, однако лучше всё-таки избегать прогулок в дождь.

Если на поверхности скопилось слишком много грязи, их можно почистить. Для начала, их следует обезжирить при помощи любого доступного растворителя, например, бензина или уайт-спирита. Это позволит убрать накопившийся резиновый битум и случайно попавшее масло.

Стоит не забывать, что после того, как колодки были очищены, стоит также протереть растворителем поверхность обода или тормозного диска, чтобы также удалить масло и грязь. Многие велолюбители советуют использовать средство для мытья посуды для протирки колодок, так как оно прекрасно удаляет жир и масло.

Если это не помогло, можно очистить поверхность канцелярским ножом, аккуратно срезав слой испортившейся колодки. Однако лучше всего такое делать при помощи наждачной бумаги со средним зерном. Она прекрасно счистит всё лишнее, скопившееся на колодках.

Ещё один способ очистить – это хорошенько прокалить. Это осуществляется постоянным притормаживанием при скатывании с горы. Таким образом, сжигается всё лишнее, что накопилось за всё время эксплуатации.

При неправильной установке колодок их следует перенастроить. Это можно сделать в ближайшем сервисном центре или же самостоятельно.

1. Для того, чтобы настроить тормоза своими руками следует для начала отрегулировать длину тросика. Показателем оптимальной длины является зазор в 3-4 мм между колодками.
2. Настройка осуществляется при помощи маленького винтика. Результат регулировки заключён в том, чтобы просвет между колодкой и ободом было абсолютно одинаковым с двух сторон. Чтобы увеличить расстояние между ободом и колодкой, следует крутить по часовой стрелке, если необходимо уменьшить – против. Не стоит забывать, что при закручивании винтика с одной стороны на 1 оборот, с другой стороны он так же выкручивается на 1 оборот.
3. Точно таким же способом регулируются и задние тормоза.
4. Если всё сделано правильно, то колодки больше не должны скрипеть.

Если причиной скрипов колодок является конец срока эксплуатации, их остаётся только заменить на новые. Некоторые колодки очень быстро изнашиваются, другие могут служить в разы дольше. Причина, почему так происходит, кроется в качестве колодок и в том, из какого материала они состоят – более мягкие колодки стираются быстрее твёрдых. Не стоит долго время кататься с изношенными колодками, так как это может нанести вред и ободу колеса, и диску. Колодки на велосипед являются расходным материалом, поэтому их легко приобрести в любом специализированном магазине.

Причины скрипа при торможении машины

Если скрипят тормоза при торможении на машине — в большинстве случаев это верный сигнал того, что какая-то неполадка возникла в самом ответственном за Вашу безопасность механизме машины. Почему это происходит, и что делать в этом случае? На самом же деле есть всего три причины, почему они начали скрипеть — будь то дисковый тормозной механизм или барабанный. И вот они!

Скрип тормозов не только при торможении из-за чрезмерного износа

Ваши тормоза просто износились и пришли к окончанию срока их полезного использования. Это не значит, что Вам необходимо срочно вызывать эвакуатор или бежать за новыми колодками/накладками, чтобы поменять их прямо на месте. И не значит, что вот-вот у автомобиля вообще пропадут тормоза — вовсе нет! На самом деле Ваши колодки разработаны с индикаторами износа, которые позволят Вам узнать, когда они должны быть заменены. И это на самом деле даёт Вам много времени, чтобы запланировать замену колодок, прежде чем Ваши тормоза износятся до такой степени, что смогут повредить диски или барабаны, и, тем более, вообще перестать тормозить. Однако, скрип Вы будете слышать практически всегда, и чем дальше, тем он будет сильнее. Кроме того, однажды этот визг, возможно, начнёт сопровождать Вас и при движении накатом и при разгоне — это значит, что колодки нужно заменить как можно скорее.

Если при этом всём у Вас в машине горит лампочка, сигнализирующая об износе колодок (при наличии такого индикатора), то это самое время отправиться за новыми комплектующими и заменить их.

Звук при торможении из-за вибрации колодок

Ваши тормоза вибрируют, вызывая тем самым скрипы и даже визги. Это уже не выглядит как что-то, что заставляет бегать в панике вокруг Вашего автомобиля, потому как в этом случае чаще всего нет такого пронзительного звука, но очень часто вибрация тормозных колодок является их источником. В защиту производителей автомобилей отметим, что большинство механизмов дисковых тормозов включает в себя специальную пластину для поглощения вибрации между колодкой и поршнем суппорта. Вместо такой пластины иногда может быть упругий держатель на носителе, который предотвращает вибрацию бóльшую часть времени. Проблема в том, что слишком часто эти тонкие, жестяные части при замене колодок попросту выбрасываются за мнимой ненадобностью. Таким образом, производители зачастую вообще не виноваты в том, что тормоза вдруг заскрипели, в этом случае.

Скрипят новые колодки после замены

Если Ваши тормоза заскрипели сразу же после замены колодок, либо через некоторое небольшое время после этого, то, возможно, причиной тому стали сами колодки — их состав и структура, особенно, если Вы поставили неоригинальные детали, которые рекомендует производитель Вашего авто. В этом случае, если визг появился сразу после замены, попробуйте поездить несколько дней (лучше до недели) и посмотрите, не пропадёт ли неприятный звук. Дело в том, что для всех колодок необходимо некоторое время, чтобы «притереться» к тормозному диску, и в это время Вас может сопровождать не только скрип тормозов, но и неуверенная эффективность торможения. В этом нет ничего страшного.

А вот если звук раздается по истечению некоторого времени, то тут ничего не поделать, кроме как заменить их — скрип в этом случае вряд ли пропадёт сам со временем. Ну, или как вариант Вы умудрились стереть и эти колодки за это короткое время.

Примечание: вышеуказанные ситуации применяются только к тормозам, которые именно скрипят. Если данная деталь автомобиля издает какие-либо другие шумы, такие как шлифовка, вибрации или «говорение» на разных языках, то у Вас, возможно, несколько более серьёзные проблемы и, возможно, Вам потребуется автомеханик… или священник в последнем случае.

Что делать, если тормоза заскрипели? Есть простое решение — заменить колодки (кроме случая, когда скрипят новые колодки)! К сожалению, если они прошли слишком много, это может повредить тормозные диски. Осмотрите их при замене колодок — гораздо легче установить новые диски, когда Вы всё уже разобрали (конечно, если иметь в виду, что Вам не придётся заново всё собирать, обнаружив, что тормозные диски повредились, чтобы отправиться на своём же авто за новыми).

Если Ваши шумные тормоза являются результатом вибрации, то это на первый взгляд звучит плохо, не так ли? А вот и неправильно! Вибрация является почти нормальной для тормозной системы, потому что пружины, прокладки и пластины предназначены для поглощения любой вибрации, которая возникает. Но если они не делают свою работу, то Вам придётся разобрать тормозную систему в части суппорта и колодок и проверить, на месте ли пластины — они приложены к колодкам с внешней их стороны. Если они на месте, но скрип, тем не менее, Вам сильно мешает, то Вам поможет специальная смазка для тормозов — это очевидно, но мы на всякий случай упомянем, чтобы Вы не вздумали смазывать их обычным маслом или любой другой неспециальной для этого жидкостью (WD-40, например).

Просто посетите ближайший автомагазин и спросите там масло для устранения вибрации на тормозных колодках, затем внимательно прочтите инструкцию к нему (в зависимости от марки таких масел смазывать, возможно, потребуется разные части тормозов, но чаще всего это тыльная сторона колодок и поршень суппорта).

90000 Steering Wheel Shaking When Braking? 90001 90002 90003 There are some things that you 90004 want 90005 to shake-like maracas, a Polaroid picture, or your groove thing. But your steering wheel? Not so much. If your steering wheel is quivering when you brake or shaking when you stop, something’s likely going haywire in your brake system. From worn brake pads to dry guide pins and warped rotors, there are a variety of common culprits. Learn why your steering wheel may be trembling when you brake, more about each vehicle part, and what you can do to put a stop to the shivers and shakes! 90006 90002 90004 90009 Psst! 90010 If your steering wheel shakes while you’re driving but 90009 NOT 90010 braking, keep reading, but understand that the culprit may not be one of the following.A shaking steering wheel during normal driving conditions may indicate that your tires need balancing or inflating, or there could be something lodged in one of them. Whatever the source of the shakes, steer towards your local Firestone Complete Auto Care and let our technicians get to the bottom of it. 90005 90006 90015 Worn Brake Pads 90016 90002 90009 90004 What’s happening: 90005 90010 When you press down on the brake pedal, you kick start a series of rapid events. As you step on the pedal a caliper applies pressure to the brake pad, which in turn clinches down on the rotors.(Similar to how bicycle brakes work.) This brings your car to a stop. If anything is «off» with said brake pad, you may feel it in your steering wheel. Brake pads that are old, worn, or particularly dirty can not grip the rotor effectively and can cause your steering wheel to quiver. 90006 90023 90024 90002 90004 90009 What to do: 90010 90005 Calipers were built to last for the long haul. Rotors and brake pads, on the other hand, tend to wear out over time. Thankfully rotors can be resurfaced or replaced, and brake pads can easily be replaced too.A quick brake inspection at your local Firestone Complete Auto Care can clue you into how much life may be left in your brake pads. 90006 90015 Dry Guide Pins 90016 90002 90009 90004 What’s happening: 90005 90010 If your steering wheel is shaking as you’re trying to stop, dry guide pins could also be the culprit. The guide pins are part of the brake calipers. They’re in charge of guiding the brake pad to the rotor (hence the name). To do their job effectively, these guide pins need to be clean and lubricated.If guide pins become dry or corroded, they could cause the caliper to stick or cause the brake pads to press the rotor at the wrong angle. The result? Vibrations in the steering wheel. 90006 90002 90009 90004 What to do: 90005 90010 Inspecting and lubricating caliper guide pins is best left up to professionals, as it involves taking off the caliper, examining the caliper housing, and handling high-temperature grease. Visit your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care for a free brake inspection and if needed, a brake service or repair.90006 90015 Warped Rotors 90016 90002 90009 90004 What’s happening: 90005 90010 If you feel a pulsing in the brake pedal and a wobbling of the steering wheel when slowing at highway speeds, your rotors could be signaling trouble. When you step on the brake and the brake pads press down on the rotors, the rotors become extremely hot. Naturally, this heat can cause the rotors to become worn, warped, and uneven over time. Since your brake pads will be pressing onto a surface that is not smooth, your braking and steering will not feel smooth either.90006 90002 90009 90004 What to do: 90005 90010 To get to the bottom of this issue, a technician can do one of two things. They can spin the rotors by hand and feel for any irregularities, or they can remove the rotors and measure them with a micrometer. If a rotor is worn down to the minimum thickness specification, the rotor can not be resurfaced and must be replaced. (In fact, this is the law in some states.) When it comes to replacing brake rotors, every car is different. The need for brake rotor replacement or resurfacing is best determined with an inspection and review of the vehicle manufacturer standards, which our technicians can do during a fast and free brake check.90006 90002 If it feels like you might be experiencing a mild earthquake every time you brake, head to your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care for a quick brake inspection and free answers to tough questions. Before those shakes become more serious, let our expert technicians take a look! Swing by or schedule an appointment online. Silky smooth (and safe) braking could be as easy as a minor brake repair, new brake pads, or resurfaced rotors! 90006.90000 How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors in Under 90 Minutes 90001 90002 ASE certified mechanics have created this instructional guide including a video on the replacement of your car’s front brake pads and rotors. 90003 90004 Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement Summary 90005 90006 90007 Resetting the brake caliper 90008 90007 How to remove brake caliper 90008 90007 Removing a caliper mount 90008 90007 Removing the brake rotor 90008 90007 Matching up the old rotor to the new unit 90008 90007 Installing the new brake rotor 90008 90007 Replacing brake pads 90008 90007 Servicing the caliper slides 90008 90007 Reinstall the caliper mount 90008 90007 Bolting up the caliper 90008 90007 Setting the brake pads 90008 90029 90004 How Long Do Brake Pads Last? 90005 90002 Front brakes typically do not last as long as rear brake because they take most of the job of stopping the car.Depending on driving habits and the design of the car front brake should last between 20,000 and 35,000 miles. 90003 90004 How Much Do They Cost? 90005 90002 If you were to have the brake job done that include new pads and rotors at a repair garage it would typically cost between $ 245.00 and $ 430.00 US currency in most cases excluding exotic cars. You can get pads and rotors for about $ 110.00 to $ 140.00 US at Amazon or pay a little more at the parts store. Hybrid and electric cars will go much longer on a set of brakes because the electric motor does most of the stopping to recharge the batteries.90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90004 What Goes Wrong? 90005 90002 The brake pads, rotors and calipers are a normal wear item on all cars and responsible for slowing and stopping the car once it is in motion. If these items are neglected it can cause serious implications when applying your car’s brakes due to the lack of brake material (metal on metal). An indication for brake replacement is a squeaking or grinding noise when you hit the brakes.Also a chirping sound when the vehicle is rolling without the brakes being applied or a brake system warning light on which indicates the brake fluid is low. Low brake fluid is an indication of needing brake pads because the fluid displaces the missing pad material in the calipers. 90003 90004 Watch the Video! 90005 90002 Here is the video of the job getting done. After watching please continue down through the guide to gain additional information which is updated regularly.90003 90002 90049 90050 90003 90004 Front Brake Replacement 90005 90002 This guide includes both front wheel and rear wheel drive vehicles which use a bearing hub or old style serviceable wheel bearing set ups. Only remove one caliper and complete the brake replacement on one side at a time. 90003 90056 Step 1 90057 90002 90059 Identity Brake Components: 90060 A disc brake system consists of a brake rotor, caliper, caliper mount and an inner and outer pad set which is held inside of the caliper (wheel removed).90003 90002 90063 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90056 Step 2 90057 90002 90059 Reset the Brake Caliper: 90060 With the ignition key in the unlock position grasp the caliper and turn it outward to gain access to the mounting bolts. Then locate the brake caliper bleeder screw which is toward the top and remove the dust cap. The fluid that is in the caliper could be contaminated and may contain small dirt, metal or rust particles.90003 90002 When pushing the piston back into the caliper this contaminated fluid can cause problems for the ABS valve, motor and master cylinder which can cause these components to fail. This step is to allow the brake fluid that has entered the brake caliper in place of the worn brake pads to be removed. 90003 90002 90076 90003 90002 Use a small wrench in most cases an 10mm and fit it over the bleeder valve. Next attach a piece of rubber tubing or hose over the bleeder valve while the other end of the hose is sitting in a fluid container.Push the wrench counterclockwise to open the valve (rubber tube optional). 90003 90002 90081 90081 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 Once the bleeder is open use a small pry bar or large flat blade (standard) screw driver to wedge it between the rotor and old brake pad. Then start applying pressure back and forth to widen the gap while pushing the piston back into the caliper. Fluid will start to flow from the tube and into the container.Continue this operation until you can not push the piston any further back into the caliper. While holding pressure on the piston close the bleeder valve then remove the hose and wrench. 90003 90002 On some calipers is it difficult to reset the caliper in the fashion so this step will need to be done after the caliper has been removed using a large C clamp or channel locks. If channel locks are used install an old pad to help protect the caliper piston. 90003 90002 90091 90091 90003 90056 Step 3 90057 90002 90059 Remove the Brake Caliper: 90060 Locate the caliper mounting or slide bolts on the inside of the caliper.The bolt head sizes can either be 14mm, 15mm, 18mm, 8mm or 10mm hex drive, or a 35 torx bit in most cases. (Some Volkswagen’s use their own special 12mm or 14mm ten point torx to keep you from doing the brakes with normal tools, you must have this special tool to the job) Use a ratchet or wrench to loosen and remove both bolts by turning them counterclockwise. 90003 90002 You might need an additional wrench to hold the caliper slide from turning but this is not typical.Once removed inspect the condition of the threads and replace them if worn. 90003 90002 90103 90103 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 Now the caliper will be loose. Grasp it to remove the caliper from the brake pads and the caliper mounting bracket. If the caliper has not been retracted you may need to rock the caliper back and forth a little to remove it. Once the caliper is free from the pads set it securely on the lower control arm, strut bulk head or use a zip tie to hold it out of the way.Be careful not to bend, kink or allow the caliper to hang from the brake flex hose. 90003 90002 Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hose for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace it if needed. 90003 90002 90113 90113 90003 90056 Step 4 90057 90002 90059 Remove the Brake Pads: 90060 Once the brake caliper has been removed grasp the inner and outer pads and slide them outward from the rotor and out of the caliper mounting bracket. You can use a standard screw driver and wedge it between the pads and the rotor to help in the removal.Sometimes the pads will get stuck on the caliper upon removal which you can then pop them out from the caliper to remove. 90003 90002 90123 90123 90003 90002 Inspect the worn pad and silencer shim. Look for uneven wear which is an indication of a seized caliper slide which will need to be serviced. We will show you how to do this later on in this guide. 90003 90002 90129 90129 90003 90056 Step 5 90057 90002 90059 Remove the Caliper Mounting Bracket: 90060 The caliper mounting bracket must be removed to replace the brake rotor in most cases.Locate the mounting bolts on the inner part of the bracket. The bolt head size will be larger than the caliper mounting bolts such as 17mm, 18mm or 19mm in most cases. These bolts can be held in with thread lock so make sure the socket or wrench is on securely before applying pressure counterclockwise to remove them. 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 90141 90141 90003 90002 When removing the last bolt the mounting bracket will become loose so keep your hand on it so it does not fall.This bracket will contain the caliper slides which will need to be removed and cleaned before reassembly. These slides help the caliper float to ensure that both inner and outer brake pads wear evenly. Now the brake rotor is ready to be removed. 90003 90002 90147 90147 90003 90004 Brake Rotor Replacement 90005 90002 A brake rotor is designed to utilize brake pressure provided by the brake system to stop the car. This brake rotor utilizes friction and heat to convert momentum into stopping power.Brake pads ride against either side of the brake rotor and are held in place by the brake caliper. 90003 90004 What Goes Wrong? 90005 90002 Brake rotors can either be solid or ventilated depending on the application design. Replacement costs for brake rotors have come way down in recent years and replacing them has become the preferred method over resurfacing. There is a minimum thickness measurement requirement designed to uphold rotor performance integrity. Once a rotor reached this minimum measurement it must be discarded or it can warp causing the steering wheel to shake when the brakes are applied.90003 90002 A brake rotor is only capable of holding a specific amount of heat. Once this level is reached the brake rotor can not hold additional heat causing the brakes to fade. Brake fade is a condition that will hinder the brake performance until the brake rotor has cooled. If a brake rotor is subjected to prolonged overheating conditions it can destroy the rotor by crystallizing the rotor’s metal causing hot spots which will create a grumbling sound when the brakes are used.90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 A brake rotor’s surface can become uneven and have groves in it as the brake pads wear which is a natural occurrence. New brake pads are perfectly flat and need a flat surface to mate against. If new brake pads are installed onto a worn brake rotor it can cause weak brake operation and squeaking. This can cause the brake pedal or steering wheel to pulse when the brakes are applied. 90003 90002 It’s not a good idea to install new brake pads on an old brake rotor because the braking surface will be uneven and will diminish the brakes ability which can make the car pull one way or the other when braking.This is known as «slap pads on it» and is the very cheapest way to do a front bake job. 90003 90056 Step 1 90057 90002 90059 Replace the Brake Rotor: 90060 Some brake rotors are held to the bearing hub with a mounting screw or sheet metal clip on the wheel stud. Use a screwdriver or impact screwdriver to remove the screws. There also may be sheet metal clips that can be removed with a pair of side cutters (dikes). These clips can then be discarded. 90003 90002 90173 90173 90003 90002 These mounting screws can be on there pretty tight in which case you must use an impact screwdriver which looks like this and is available from Amazon or you can rent it from the parts store which is pretty cheap.90003 90002 90179 90179 90003 90002 While wearing safety goggles use a hammer and strike the end of the impact screwdriver which will unlock the screw and make it more easily removed. The impact screwdriver has two settings, tighten and loosen so make sure you have it on the correct setting. 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 90187 90187 90003 90002 After removing any mounting screws or clips the rotor should be loose. Sometimes the rotor can be stuck due to rust and the fact the wheel is tightened against it and the bearing hub.While still wearing safety goggles use a plastic or regular hammer to shock the rotor loose for removal. This can take some force so do not be afraid to give it a good strong strike of a metal hammer. 90003 90002 90193 90193 90003 90002 Once the old brake rotor has been removed match it to the new rotor. Check the outer diameter and mounting offset along with the wheel stud location, they should be an identical match. Some people like to re-machine rotors using a brake lathe.We recommend new ones because the re-machined rotors will have less metal to dissipate heat with which can make them warp. This condition will make the steering wheel shake when applying the brakes. 90003 90002 90199 90199 90003 90002 Use a shop towel and wipe off the mounting surface of the bearing hub and make sure it’s free from dirt and grease. This will allow the new rotor to sit squarely on the bearing hub. Once the old rotor has been matched to the new unit, align the wheel studs and rotor mounting screws.Then slip the rotor onto the bearing hub. 90003 90002 90205 90205 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 Install the rotor mounting screws and tighten. You do not need to use the impact screwdriver to make the screws super tight at this point because the rotor will be held on by the wheel and lug nuts. 90003 90002 90213 90213 90003 90002 On older cars and light trucks the rotor will house the axle bearings and grease seal which will need to be cleaned and repacked (Serviced).90003 90004 Service the Caliper Slides 90005 90002 The caliper sides are designed to allow the caliper to float while being bolted to the mounting bracket which helps the brake pads wear evenly. 90003 90004 What Goes Wrong? 90005 90002 When brake caliper slides become stuck due to rust and corrosion the car can pull while braking which causing one pad to wear excessively compared to the opposite pad in the caliper. It can also cause the brakes not to release once applied and create excessive heat.90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90056 Step 1 90057 90002 90059 Remove the Slide Bolts: 90060 Grasp the slides and pull them outward while twisting this will help break the dust boot seal loose. Continue to work the slides outward until they come free from the mounting bracket. If a slide is stuck or seized in the bracket use a vise to hold the bracket and a pair of pliers to work it loose by moving it back and forth while applying WD40 and pulling them outward.90003 90002 90235 90235 90003 90002 Use a shop towel carburetor or brake cleaner and a wire brush to clean all rust and corrosion from the slides. Check the slide bolts for wear and replacement them if excessive wear is observed. 90003 90002 90241 90241 90003 90002 Once the slides have been cleaned apply a thin layer of silicone brake lube to both slides. Some slides will have a dampener on one end be sure to not get these mixed up. Install them back into the hole they came out of.90003 90002 90247 90247 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90056 Step 2 90057 90002 90059 Reinstall the Slides and Caliper Mount: 90060 Install the caliper slides into the caliper mounting bracket with a twisting motion and make sure the slides move easily in the out. If not, remove the slide for more investigation. These slides can become worn and have groves in them in which case they will need to be replaced. Slide pin grooves can cause the caliper to hang which will create uneven pad wear and braking characteristics.90003 90002 90259 90259 90003 90002 Before reinstalling the caliper mounting bracket clean the threads of the bolts by using a small wire brush. Then hand thread in both mounting bolts into the bracket. Tighten the bolts evenly to manufacturer’s specifications which is usually between 70 and 90 foot pounds. A small amount of thread lock can be used to ensure the bolts do not come loose. 90003 90002 90265 90265 90003 90004 Install New Brake Pads 90005 90002 Once the caliper has been removed and the rotor replaced you are ready to install the new brake pads.90003 90004 How Do Brakes Pads Work? 90005 90002 Brake pads are designed to absorb heat as they create friction against the brake rotor when the brake pedal is activated. These pads ride against either side of the rotor which are held in place by the brake caliper which is typically mounted to the spindle or backing plate. Hydraulic pressure is provided by the brake system via a brake master cylinder. When the brake system is activated the brake pads are forced against the brake rotor causing it to slow down the motion of the car.90003 90002 Brake pad backing plates are made of metal and there are several different classifications of the brake pad composites for example; organic, semi metallic and ceramic to name a few. The organic pad is used mainly for stock applications. The semi metallic is used for trucks and SUV’s while the ceramic pad is used for extended life applications. Each of these pads possess individual wear and usage characteristics for example; organic pads are the most forgiving pad when it comes to brake rotor wear and tend to make less brake noise such as squeaking.90003 90002 Semi metallic pads tend to be more abusive to the rotors but can take more heat then organic pads before brake fade occurs. Ceramic pads are the hardest pad of the group and can wear out the rotors over the life of the brake pad. Ceramic pads can also be associated with brake noises such as squeaking and grumbling. The advantage of the ceramic pads is the lifespan of the brake pad set is about 20% longer than a regular brake pad. Every brake pad manufacturer has their own mixture of composite material that can vary in cost and quality.This material is bonded or riveted to the pad’s metal backing plate. 90003 90056 Step 1 90057 90002 90059 Install the Pads: 90060 When replacing the brakes always match the old brake pads to the new brake pads. The backing plate of the brake pad should be identical to the old except for the missing composite material. Some pads are fitted with anti rattle clips. These clips are design to allow the pads to move freely within the caliper mount. 90003 90002 If these clips are not included with the brake pad set transfer the old clips to the new brake pad set.Do not discard the anti rattle clips this will result in the pad having excessive clearance which will create a popping or clicking sound when the brakes are applied. Some brake pad designs will include a screamer style of wear indicator. This minimum thickness indicator was created to make a chirping or screaming noise when the brakes are in the idle position or when the brakes are applied. 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 In an effort to help keep the brake pad in place car manufacturers have designed built in outer clips that hold the pad to the inside and outside of the caliper.The inboard pad clip fits inside the caliper piston while the outboard pad clip attaches to the outer part of the caliper. These clips hold the brake pads into the brake caliper. 90003 90002 In the example below you can see the pad screamer which is what creates the squeaking or chirping noise when your brakes are getting low. This safety device is to warn you the brakes need replacing. 90003 90002 At the upper side of the pad you can see metal which coins the phrase «my brake are metal to metal «meaning the backing plate of the pad which is made of metal is contacting the rotor which is also metal.When brakes are in this condition the stopping power is greatly compromised. 90003 90002 90297 90297 90003 90002 Compare the old pad to the new one and pay special attention to the size of the pad’s backing plate tang. These tangs are what hold the pad in place. If the tang is too large it will not fit into the caliper mounting plate and if the tang is too small the pad will rattle and click when driving or stopping. Also the screamer warning tab needs to be in the same place as the old pad when installed back into the mounting bracket.90003 90002 90303 90303 90003 90002 Match the old pad backing plate size to the new pad. Some new pads have an anti-squeak vibration shim already attached to the rear of the backing plate so no additional measures to stop brake squeak is needed before installation. In older application an anti-squeak spray or coating was used but usually had little to no effect on stopping brake noise. 90003 90002 90309 90309 90003 90002 In some applications new an anti-rattle clip sets are supplied with the pads.Remove the old retainer clips and install the new ones onto the caliper mounting bracket. 90003 90002 90315 90315 90003 90002 SPONSORED LINKS 90003 90002 When installing pad anti-rattle clips into the caliper mounting bracket make sure the orientation of the clips are correct. 90003 90002 90323 90323 90003 90002 Install the new pads one at a time. Push down on the spring retainer clip and nose the top of the pad inward to rest it squarely against the rotor.90003 90002 90329 90329 90003 90002 This is what it looks like when both pads are correctly installed against the brake rotor. Make sure the pads move freely within the bracket with no access play. The caliper is now ready to be reinstalled. (Note: The pad with the sensor is usually in the inboard position). 90003 90002 90335 90335 90003 90056 Step 2 90057 90002 90059 Reinstall the Brake Caliper: 90060 While holding the caliper slides inward gently set the caliper over the brake pads.If you have difficulty getting the caliper in place double check to make sure the piston is fully retracted into the caliper and the slides are pushed into the mounting bracket. Double check the piston position with a large C clamp or channel locks and push the piston inward. 90003 90002 90345 90345 90003 90002 Once the caliper is successfully over the pads and slides install both mounting bolts by hand one at a time. Then tighten the bolts to manufacturers torque specification which is usually 35 to 45 foot pounds.Some slides have a hex where a wrench can be used to hold the slides from turning while tightening the bolt. Now completed repeat this brake job procedure for the opposite side of the car. 90003 90002 90351 90351 90003 90056 Step 3 90057 90002 90059 Adding Brake Fluid: 90060 Open the hood and locate the brake master cylinder which is usually on the driver’s side near the firewall. Use a shop towel and clean the brake master cylinder reservoir and lid to ensure no dirt falls into the fluid then remove the lid so fluid can be added.90003 90002 90361 90361 90003 90002 Add brake fluid from a sealed container until the level meets the «FULL» line on the reservoir. 90003 90002 90367 90367 90003 90002 Once the fluid has been installed to its proper level reinstall the lid and wipe an excess brake fluid with a shop towel. After the brake pedal has been pushed down and proper brake pressure has been obtained recheck the fluid level and re-add if needed. 90003 90002 90373 90373 90003 90056 Step 4 90057 90002 90059 Push Down On the Brake Pedal Slowly: 90060 Once the opposing side is complete double check your work to make sure all bolts are on and tight.Slowly push the brake pedal downward, the pedal will go to the floor. Then allow it back up very slowly, never pump the brakes quickly. Repeat this operation until you feel the brake pedal become normal and have pressure. This can take four to seven cycles. 90003 90002 This operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors while taking up the air gap between the pad, rotor and caliper piston. Do this until normal brake operation has returned (brake pedal is in its normal position).Moving the pedal slowly helps prevent air bubbles being trapped in the system which alleviates bleeding. If the pedal seems spongy air is trapped and the brake system needs bleeding. 90003 90002 90385 90385 90003 90056 Step 5 90057 90002 90059 Breaking In the Brake pads and rotors: 90060 After a brake service has been performed and the car is safety on level ground recheck the brake pedal operation. This should be done with the car running and in park to aid the power brake system.When first using the new brakes they will not work as good because they have not been broken in yet this means the pads have not mated to the rotor. To do this properly take the car for a test drive use the brakes gently while doing easy stops. Then releasing the pedal monetarily and then reapply it while stopping. 90003 90002 This will break in the pads while allowing them to cool and release any brake material disbursed in the process. Repeat this procedure 5 to 7 times at this point the brakes are ready for the open road and the brake pedal operation should be normal.If you hear any strange noises or the pedal is soft or spongy recheck the job by re-jacking the car up and removing the wheels of inspection or re-bleeding the system. Never continue to drive a car without normal brake pedal operation. 90003 90004 Got Questions? 90005 90002 If you have any questions brakes please visit our forum. If you need car repair advice please ask our community of mechanics is happy to help and always 100% free. 90003 90002 Article published 2018-06-06 90003 .90000 Why Is My Car Squeaking? A Squeaky Suspension? 90001 90002 90003 90003 Having a squeaky suspension can be one of the most frustrating problems to have in any vehicle. Every time you go over even the smallest bump or make a turn, you have to deal with the squeaks and creaks of your suspension. Speed ​​bumps can become embarrassing and, although it’s good exercise, you park as far away from the door of your office building as you can so no one hears you pulling into your parking spots.90005 90006 Why is My Car Squeaking? Is it a Sign of Bigger Problems? 90007 90002 Squeaky suspensions are not just embarrassing, they can also be an indication that there is a big problem with your suspension. Besides the annoying noise, a broken suspension system in your vehicle can increase the likelihood of rollovers, make it difficult to control your vehicle in corners and can increase your stopping distance in an emergency. Suspension issues can also cause your steering geometry to be incorrect which can lead to increased tire wear and difficulty negotiating turns.The setup of your vehicle’s suspension is extremely important as is explained in this extensive article about steering geometry. 90005 90002 90011 90012 90005 90002 A squeaky suspension system is not just embarrassing with those squeaking noises and grinding noises, but it is also dangerous and can be extremely difficult to diagnose and fix. Your vehicle’s weight is supported using coil springs, leaf springs or torsion bars. You also have a shock absorber by each wheel and in most cases a sway bar or anti-roll bar both in the front and in the back.There will also be control arms, struts, steering linkages, tie rods, and / or track bars linking the wheels to the vehicle. Each one of these components have a joint on each end that could be the source of your noise. There are three types of joints commonly used in your suspension components. 90005 90006 Ball Joints 90007 90002 Ball joints are used when the joint must be able to move in multiple plans such as rotating and moving up and down. For example, the joint at the end of your lower control arm that connects to the steering knuckle needs to move up and down as the spring compresses, but also turn as you turn the steering wheel.Ball joints are much like your shoulder or hip joint where a stainless steel ball fits in a Teflon cup and provides the range of motion and rigidity needed. Ball joints sometimes have grease fittings in the cup and a rubber boot containing the grease. If the boot rips these joints can start to make squeaks when you turn. If you find a ball joint with a torn boot, consider replacing it. 90005 90006 Bushings 90007 90002 Bushings are used if the joint only needs to move in one direction, such as up and down or side to side.Bushings are the most common joints in your suspension system and also the most likely to case a squeaky suspension. Bushings are basically rubber sleeves that go between the frame of your vehicle and the suspension component which allows the suspension component to rotate. Bushings can squeak if the rubber becomes torn or even dried out or if the suspension component starts to rotate inside the metal sleeve inside the bushing due to incorrect torque or a broken bushing. Worn out bushings cause more movement which in return causes those squeaking noises as well as incorrect suspension geometry.If you suspect a squeaking bushing, try spraying a small amount of lubricant on the bushings to see if the noise goes away temporarily. If it does, consider replacing the bushing. For an even quieter ride, consider using polyurethane bushings. 90005 90006 Rubber Mounts 90007 90002 The last type of joint used is a simple rubber mount. These type of joints are used if only a small amount of motion is required and are much like engine or transmission mounts. These types of mounts are often used on the rear side of lower control arms.If you suspect a squeaking sound coming from a mount style joint, simply check for tears or try spraying it with penetrating oil to see if the noise temporarily stops. 90005 90002 In some cases, these mounts or joints may be integral to the suspension component so you may need to replace the entire control arm or shock absorber just to replace a single joint or bushing. When you’re replacing shock absorbers, it’s always important to replace them in pairs (both front or both rear) to ensure even and predictable handling from your vehicle.90005 90006 Other Reasons Why Your Car is Squeaking 90007 90002 There are other causes of squeaking in your vehicle besides the common suspension joints listed above. One cause could be related to the serpentine belt. It is common for this belt to lose grip on one of its pulleys causing the dreaded squeaking noise. This is usually a simple fix to get your serpentine belt or tensioner replaced. Another cause of squeaking can be related to your level of power steering fluid. It is very typical for your car to start squealing when making a turn when your power steering fluid is low.You should check the fluid levels of many things in your car and especially the power steering fluid in this case. If you have a leak, you may want to look into our Power Steering Stop Leak product. In this case, a fix might be as cheap and easy as topping off your levels. 90005 90002 For more great articles on how to care for your vehicle, visit our blog and use the search function to find an article that talks about the problem you’re having with your vehicle! From this page, you can also ask The BlueDevil Pro specific question about your car or truck! 90005 90002 Picture Provide by: 90037 squeaky_suspension.jpg — By Arabella17 — Licensed by Getty Images — Original Link 90005 .90000 Causes of bike creaks and other annoying noises 90001 90002 Creaks. Clicks. Knocks. We show you how to hunt down and fix those annoying and potentially dangerous bike creaks and noises. 90003 90002 >>> How to stop disc brake howls and squeals 90003 90006 Things that can cause unwanted bike noises 90007 90002 Stiff link in chain. 90003 90002 ‘Dry’ chain that needs lubing. 90003 90002 Rear derailleur needs indexing. 90003 90002 Rear mech hanger is not straight. 90003 90002 Wheel axles not located in frame properly.90003 90002 Bent disc brake rotor. 90003 90002 Creaking / clicking brake lever pivot (solve by a drop of oil in there). 90003 90002 Debris in brake caliper. 90003 90002 Disc brake pad spring displaced and touching the rotor. 90003 90002 Loose / worn / dry frame pivots. 90003 90002 Loose / worn rear shock bushing. 90003 90002 Loose brake caliper. 90003 90002 Worn / dry suspension fork bushings. 90003 90002 Loose saddle clamp. 90003 90002 Dirt in between saddle rails and seatpost clamp. 90003 90002 Dirt in between seatpost and frame seat tube.90003 90002 Dirt in between seatpost clamp and frame. 90003 90002 Loose bottom bracket. 90003 90002 Worn out bottom bracket. 90003 90002 Dirt in between bottom bracket and crank arms. 90003 90002 Dirt in between bottom bracket and frame. 90003 90002 Frame bottom bracket shell not properly finished (AKA chased and faced). 90003 90002 Worn / dry jockey wheels. 90003 90002 Dry rear mech ‘plate hinges’. 90003 90002 Loose / worn / dry headset. 90003 90002 Loose pedals. 90003 90002 Dirt in pedal threads.90003 90002 Dirt in between pedal axle flange and crank arm surface. 90003 90002 Incorrectly tightened stem (ie. Overtight, uneven tightness). 90003 90002 Dirty thru-axles. 90003 90002 Dry hub seals. 90003 90002 Spokes rubbing against each other (clean and lube the spot). 90003 90002 Dirt in between cassette and freehub body. 90003 90002 Worn freehub body. 90003 90002 Bulged-out poorly seated tyre rubbing on mudguard. 90003 90002 Loose chainring bolts. 90003 90002 Dirt in the chainring bolts.90003 90002 Dirt under any bolt head. 90003 90002 Dry underside of any bolt head. 90003 90002 Loose spoke (s). 90003 90002 Loose cassette lockring. 90003 90002 Worn or damaged cassette sprocket tooth. 90003 90002 Mixing old drivetrain parts with worn / old drivetrain parts ie. new chain on old cassette or chainring. 90003 90002 Excess gear inner cable ‘tickling’ the spokes or crank arms. 90003 90002 Poorly setup front mech. 90003 90002 Misaligned brake caliper. 90003 90002 Outer cables clicking against the frame (see video above).90003 90002 Shoe soles (or shoe laces) making a noise against pedal body, crank arm or frame. 90003 90002 Loose presta valve locking nuts. 90003 90002 Loose bottle cage bolts. 90003 90002 Wheel reflectors. 90003 90002 Worn out or corroded nipples. 90003 90002 Cracks in the frame. 90003 90002 Cracks in handlebar. 90003 90002 Cracks in seatpost. 90003 90002 Corroded or worn-out pedal cleats and / or clipless pedal mechanism. 90003 90002 Dry or dirty hub ‘converting’ end caps. 90003 90002 Poorly aligned bike computer spoke magnet and / or sensor.90003 90002 Chain incorrectly threaded through rear mech cage. 90003 90002 Frame mounted pump knocking against frame / bracket over rough ground. 90003 90002 Zip pulls on shorts. 90003 90002 Zip pulls on jackets. 90003 90002 Headset assembled incorrectly. 90003 90002 Insufficient amount of spacers on fork steerer. 90003 90002 ‘Slammed’ short stem fouling frame headtube. 90003 90006 Any we’ve missed? 90007 90002 If you’ve had an annoying bike creak and its cause is not listed above, let us know in the comments section below.Do not forget to include details of how you cured it! 90003 90006 Dry or dirty bolts 90007 90002 99% of bike creaks and clicks are caused by two components that have either gone ‘dry’ and / or have some dirt in there where their surfaces meet or in the threads. 90003 90002 So when you do locate the source of the creak it’ll almost certainly just be a case of cleaning it and then applying the appropriate substance before reassembling. 90003 90002 As weird as it sounds, lube helps keep bolts and other things tight.90003 90002 Even if two components are not supposed to move against each other (eg. Seatpost and seat tube) they should have some substance in between them. It’s not always the answer — some interfaces should be lube-free or have anti-seize in there — but it usually is. 90003 90002 You really should contemplate investing in a torque wrench too. Overtightening components causes them not to sit correctly up against their neighbouring components which can allow dirt in as well as cause stress riser creaks.Torque wrenches used to be expensive and hard to find in bicycle-relevant torque ranges but this is no longer the case. 90003 90006 How to pinpoint bike creaks 90007 90002 Sometimes it’s obvious where the noise is coming from. Sometimes it is not. Sometimes your frame’s tubes can act like a ventriloquist and make it sound like the noise is coming from somewhere when in actual fact the noise originates from elsewhere. 90003 90002 The key thing to work out when the noise happens. Once you know WHEN it’s happening you can progress quickly to WHERE it’s happening.90003 90002 Does it only make a noise when you’re sat down? Yes — it’s your saddle or seatpost making the noise. No — keep guessing. 90003 90002 Does it only do it when pedalling? Yes — it’s something in your drivetrain, pedals or rear hub. No — keep guessing. 90003 90002 Does it only do it over rough ground? Yes — it’s possibly a loose brake calliper or loose / worn suspension pivots. No — keep guessing. 90003 90002 Does it only do it when braking? Yes — might be your headset, or brake calliper, or brake lever, or spokes, or wheel axle.No — keep guessing. 90003 90002 And so on. 90003 90006 A silent bike is bliss 90007 90002 A creaking bike can be incredibly infuriating, and it may also be an early warning sign that there is something very wrong and potentially dangerous afoot. 90003 90002 The first thing you should do upon discovering a creak is to give your bike a good clean and inspect it for cracks. Pay particular attention to the bars, stem and any welds, especially around the headtube and bottom bracket shell. Although this may seem like a laborious process there is no point taking further steps if there are cracks present.If you do find a suspect crack it is worth getting a second opinion from your local bike shop. 90003 90002 If all seems to be in order, then resolving a creak can require a bit of trial and error. Some creaks can be easily traced, but sometimes the noise is transferred away from its source. 90003 90002 Some creaks can be very hard to find, and we have come across new bikes that have suffered from creaking problems which we have failed to resolve through conventional means. In one case it transpired after speaking to the manufacturer that the mitres of the frametubes were misaligned and this was causing the noise! 90003 90002 Full-suspension bikes make the whole process even more complicated.The vast majority of creaking issues, however, can be resolved by following the steps laid out here. 90003 90002 It is well worth investing in some good quality ‘anti-seize’ and applying it to the bolt threads and beneath the head. Clean all the parts you dismantle thoroughly as this will give you the chance to carefully inspect parts for damage. 90003 .